By Chip Walsh with pictures by Scott Brody
When paddling to Pope Bay, bring your most
detailed chart / topo, something with a scale 1:50,000 or better. You
might be able to find the Pope Bay site by dead reckoning, and then again…
On the way in we sailed with a moderate southerly breeze pushing us from Chincoteague out through Oyster Bay, Assateague Bay, and west of most of the islands in Chincoteague Bay. Even with good maps, it took Greg Welker’s GPS to confirm we were paddling east between the correct set of islands. Then Sherry Brody’s eagle-like eyesight and binoculars picked out the sign for Pope Bay camp site over the marsh. I nominate Pope Bay as the most interesting of the four paddling destinations at Assateague. The area is a virtual labyrinth of marsh islands, wooded islands, cuts and creeks. |
Greg Welker, Scott Brody, Sherry Brody, Chip Walsh, and Steve Grant at Fir Landing Boat Ramp |
The camp site itself sits on a 50-yard wide pod of land at the junction of two creeks. The marsh edge is cut down at the landing leaving a sloping "ramp" of sand and grass very close to the tent sites. There is a fair amount of brush and vegetation to provide limited shelter from the wind and guy points for erecting tarps. For shelter, tarp hanging potential, and wood foraging, I rate the site as only fair, the worst of the four paddle-in sites at Assateague. The Pope Bay site is closer to the Ocean than the other three sites, but if you follow the road it won’t seem so because the road takes a half-mile jog to the north before it cuts through the dunes. |
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There was a new moon during our trip. We had two clear nights of spectacular starry sky. I stepped away from the fire Thursday night to see how dark it would be once my eyes fully adjusted. I was surprised how well I could see. Steve joined me and we walked out to the beach without tripping over anything, bumping into trees or stepping in puddles. The sky is bright at the horizon line on all sides but east, and particularly so to the north (Ocean City), so I conclude that light pollution has changed the darkness of night at Assateague. |
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Greg left on Friday and I paddled part way out with him. We went south through Pope Bay, which lies between Assateague and Pope Island. There's a "secret" passage, a back door, on the west side that lets you paddle south inside Pope Island. At the far south end of Pope Island we went west and then north out Virginia Creek, which leads out to Chincoteague Bay south of the State line. I bid safe passage to Greg as we passed an extreme example of the many dilapidated buildings we passed out in the marshes. This one had rotted down to the foundation. It took a few looks to recognize the most prominent features were the rusted iron frames of two beds around which the walls had all vanished. We took this same route out on Sunday, only continuing out Virginia Creek and turning south across Calfpen Bay towards Rugged Point and Chincoteague beyond. All of us agreed this is some of the prettiest paddling Assateague has to offer. |
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Putting our backs to Chincoteague as we head north into Oyster Bay |
After getting away from Chincoteague, we passed 10 - 20 structures on the marshes, most in various states of disrepair. This one at the northern end of Assateague Bay, looked in pretty good shape. Ponies complete the picture. |
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On a rainy Friday, Chip and Scott went out clamming
in Pope Bay (pictured at left). We only found a few clams, but mussels
were plentiful. Below, Steve and Chip followed the creek next to camp until a duck exhibiting territorial defensive behavior drove them back. |
At Pope Bay, the boat landing is only steps away from the tent sites. Proximity to the water makes loading and unloading easy, but leaves the site more exposed to wind. |
The beach is close, too. When the wind wasn't roaring, the sound of the surf was constant throughout the campsite and out on Pope Bay. |
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At left, Sherry pauses on the old road between
the marsh and the dunes. The pavement is still exposed here and there along
the road. Just think, had the developers had their way, this road would
look like the main drag in Ocean City, six lanes wide, condos and fast food
on each side. Below: Scott |
Left: Steve Grant powers against the wind in a cut in the marsh between Pope Bay and Green Run. |
On returning through Oyster Bay to Chincoteague we passed a fellow sitting on a dock looking at a sunken run-about. He told us it sank in Friday night's storm. At the Fir Landing dock, a waterman was bailing 5-gallon bucket after bucket from his boat. He had noticed our cars had been parked there severeal days and was amazed we'd been out in that storm. "Where y'all been?...You were camped! In that storm!" Another concerned citizen had notified the CG that we had not returned. Friday's storm must have been a butt-kicker at Chincoteague. It didn't seem that bad to us. Heck, we even had fun!
Launch info: Fir Landing off Deep Hole Road in
Chincoteague. Access is to the north end of Little Oyster Bay. You need
to pick up a parking permit from the town of Chincoteague, which is available
from the Community Center, if it is open or the police station if the Community
Center is closed. Both the Community Center and Police Station are conveniently
located on Deep Hole Road before you get to the turn for Fir Landing. The
permits cost $5.00 for a week. On November 11, there was room for us to
park right along Fir Landing Road at the launch. I was a little worried
that our vehicles might be at risk parked in such a low traffic area, but
apparently neighbors kept an eye out for us. Somebody became concerned after
the vehicles had been there for several days and left notes on our windshields.
It was nice to know the citizens of Chincoteague were looking out for us.
The site at Pope Bay was about 11 miles from this launch.
From Greg: gps for the route Thursday was 10.8 miles. Friday the gps said 12.8 but you and I did a little bit of back paddling.
From MCC Board
Posted by Chip on November 17,
2004 at 20:50:12:
In Reply to: Trip Report - Assateague Gentlemen's Trip (long) posted by Mike McCrea on November 17, 2004 at 10:01:05:
You couldn't have asked for much better field testing conditions for the tarps: driving rain and howling wind. As we cooked Friday night down at the Pope Bay site, we were glad Scott had brought along one of those free-standing gazebo things. It was staked and guyed at four corners, plus was attached to the ground via a blue tarp/windshield. It was a little smallish but kept the rain off through dinner.
Saturday morning I was impressed Scott had taken down the gazebo, until Scott stuck his head out of the tent with a puzzled look on his face. We found the gazebo in the bush off to the east, which was weird because it was a north wind. We had to take it apart to get it out because the wind had it pinned there. It just missed going in the creek.
So fess up, Mike. How'd your tarps do?Posted by Mike McCrea on November 18, 2004 at 07:42:08:
In Reply to: How'd the tarps and boats rate? posted by Chip on November 17, 2004 at 20:50:12:
Friday night ‘eh? Did you happen to listen to a weather radio – gale force winds, gusts at 40 knots plus. Oh yeah, the conditions were perfect for testing tarps and shelters.
We brought four tarps/shelters, each a different design or style (I didn’t see the value in reviewing, say, four nearly identical parawings). We had an MEC Mantis Tarp, which is actually more of a floorless tent-style shelter. We had a couple of Cooke Custom Sewing Tundra Tarps (a 1.9oz 6 panel, 15’x15’ and a 1.1oz 4 panel, 10’x10’). We had an NRS Riverwing (17’ x 18’). And we had a Kelty ShadeHouse (12’).
Without giving away too much (hey, buy the dang magazine in 6 months) the Mantis, Cooke and NRS were bombproof and my tester crew is line up to pro-deal ‘em.
The Kelty was a disaster, lacking even a single favorable design element. It wasn’t all that easy to set up, didn’t offer much overhead coverage, provided zero protection against a blowing rain, had insufficient tie down points. It was another example of a design that looked good on paper that was an utter failure functionally.
My favorite – the NRS Riverwing, but I’m a wing man: