Paddling Trip to Shoshone Lake
Yellowstone National Park
20-21 July, 2012




I paddled solo from the boat Launch at Lewis Lake. The route crossed Lewis Lake, ascended the Lewis River, and I had a permit for YNP primitive campsite 8R1, on the north shore of "Narrows" section of the lake. It broke down to about an hour crossing the Lake, about an hour paddling up the river, about an hour towing your boat up the last portion of the river, and about an hour to where I should have found site 8R1. I would spend an additional hour or more searching for site 8R1.

The guys with the repaired canoe took the image at right near where the Lewis River enters Lewis Lake.
Chip on Lewis
              Lake
The view while paddling up the Lewis River.
Up the Lewis
              River
Lewis River narrows and passes some steep and rocky banks on the way up.
Further up the
              Lewis River
After a few miles the Lewis River became too shallow to paddle up. I put Teva sandals over my neo booties, which helped a lot walking through the boulder strewn river. I so wished I had a canoe and a pole instead of a sea kayak. And speaking of poles, I had a devil of a time finding a decent wading/walking stick. I ended up with two nice sticks and think I would have hurt myself if I hadn't had the sticks to help keep my balance in the current.
Swift shallow
              water, Lewis River
The Lewis eventually widens and deepens into Shoshone Lake. There was a bit of beach on the right side as I was emerging from the river, and I beached there, rested, and ate some lunch. The Tevas and walking sticks went onto the back deck as I readied myself to paddle two or three miles to my permitted site. No motorized craft are allowed on Shoshone Lake, and having to pull your boat a mile upriver reduced the traffic on Shoshone. I encountered a few people, mostly camped, and a very few boats on the water.

The southwest wind was wipping pretty well in my face as I approached the Narrows. There I encountered a fellow on a SOT who cautioned me about the crossing--"it's rough out there". He seemed to be advising me not to cross. I'd read stories about how rough this Lake could get, but really, I was paddling a sea kayak which had no problems slicing through the wind waves and whitecaps.

But I did have a problem. I couldn't find the campsite. I'd paddled to where it should be, based on the map, but didn't see it. So, I continued along the shore, figuring I'd come to it. What I came to was site 8R2, which logically should be right next to my permitted site. So, I continued westward along the northern shore. The sites are well separated on this end of the Lake, and I think it was at least a mile to the next site, 8R4. Great! I'd established that (a) I was going the wrong direction, and (b) I wasn't seeing all the sites. I worked back the way I had come and eventually found my site.
not sure
The little orange reflector is mounted on a brown pole that bears the site number in 1.5" high figures. At site 8R1, said reflector/pole/sign was erected immediately behind where a tree is now growing. No wonder I missed it at first pass.
Chip on Lewis
              Lake
The clearing for camping was about 100 paces from the beach landing. The site was on top of a bluff that rose sharply from the Lake.
Camp at Lewis
              Lake
I was told to string my vittles up from cross-poles I would find at the site. The cross pole was attached to two vertical trees with chain, and the darn thing was 20 - 25 feet up. I wasn't sure I had enough rope to get over that bar and back down.

I tied together the several lengths of rope I had, tied a hefty stick on one end of the line, and about threw my shoulder out pitching the stick over the limb. As the limb was sailing over the bar, it occurred to me I better grab the loose end of the rope before the stick carried the whole rope over the bar. That was a good idea, but in the excitement I kind of lost track of the physics of the situation. I caught the loose end of the rope, which arrested the flight of the stick, which became the weight on the end of a pendulum. After I caught the rope, I turned back toward the bar and the stick swinging towards me on the rope smacked me across the jaw. I don't know whether the shock or the pain was greater.

I was quite afraid of meeting a bear. There wasn't a lot of human traffic and the rangers had really hyped the danger of bear encounters. Nobody was at the three other sites I visited while wandering. If there was a bear encounter, it would just be me and the bear. I swore so loud after that stick hit my face that any bear in the neighborhood would have been more scared than me!
Stick almost got
              Chip
After paddling, setting up camp, and having a stick slap the shit out of me, I knew it was time for happy hour. I carried my chair and a drink to this lakeside overlook.
Happy hour
              seating
The beach at 8R1 was gravel.

On Saturday morning, I packed the camp back into the boat. I decided to paddle 3 miles west to the end of the Lake and see if I could find the thermal features.

As I was packing, I heard the noise of a distant train across the Lake. Of course, there was no train, and I thought it must be the wind. Wrong. It was rain, and it rained hard for about a half hour.

Then a wind came up such as I had never experienced. It was the suddenness that shocked me. It was like somebody flipped a switch on a giant wind just 0 to 20+ in an instant. Waves took 30 seconds before they stood up, and within minutes I was churning head-on through serious wind waves. I recalled reading that afternoon winds came up quickly on Yellowstone lakes, but this was beyond my expectation for coming up quick, and it was morning.

The wind blew like that for about an hour and then slowly diminished. I was able to catch the sulfur sent of the hot springs on the wind, and that helped me find them. But then the wind quit. That was disappointing, because I was looking forward to the ride down the lake with the wind at my back.
Azul on the beach
There is a geyser basin at the west end of Shoshone Lake. I don't know how extensive it is because I became afraid to get out and walk around much, recalling the warning about constantly changing conditions and break-through crust, scalding water, etc.

There is a bubbling fumerol right at the water's edge.

A ranger later told me the features are more extensive and there is a well worn trail through the features. I never saw it. The ranger said if you stayed on the trail there was little danger of being boiled alive.
Lakeside fumerol
It was about a six-mile paddle back to the Lewis River. There were a few other paddlers on the water. In all, I think I saw four boats. At the east end of the Lake, I again landed at the beach near where the river exits Shoshone Lake, ate a bit, strapped the Tevas over my booties, and broke out my wading sticks. As is often the case, the trip downriver was much easier than the upriver trip. I sat on the stern of the kayak, facing the stern, and floated over the shallow swiftwater at the top end of the Lewis. Sitting on the stern made the bow lighter, so the current wouldn't sweep it around. I dangled my legs in the water to fend of rocks and used the pole in either hand to snub my way downriver. I only scraped one rock on the way down. It was amazing how quick this part of the trip went, at least in comparison to how long it had taken me to travel upriver.

When I came out onto Lewis Lake the wind was howling again. Naturally, it was not a helpful wind, basically SW and coming at me from about my 1:00 - 2:00. Waves were a foot and higher, but that just added interest to the paddle. Still, it was a relief to return to the launch and finish the trip.
Chip on Lewis
              Lake


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Last edit: 10/8/12