I paddled solo from the boat
Launch at Lewis Lake. The route crossed Lewis Lake, ascended
the Lewis River, and I had a permit for YNP primitive
campsite 8R1, on the north shore of "Narrows" section of the
lake. It broke down to about an hour crossing the Lake,
about an hour paddling up the river, about an hour towing
your boat up the last portion of the river, and about an
hour to where I should have found site 8R1. I would spend an
additional hour or more searching for site 8R1.
The guys with the repaired canoe took the image at right
near where the Lewis River enters Lewis Lake.
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The view while paddling up
the Lewis River.
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Lewis River narrows and
passes some steep and rocky banks on the way up.
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After a few miles the Lewis
River became too shallow to paddle up. I put Teva sandals
over my neo booties, which helped a lot walking through the
boulder strewn river. I so wished I had a canoe and a pole
instead of a sea kayak. And speaking of poles, I had a devil
of a time finding a decent wading/walking stick. I ended up
with two nice sticks and think I would have hurt myself if I
hadn't had the sticks to help keep my balance in the
current.
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The Lewis eventually widens
and deepens into Shoshone Lake. There was a bit of beach on
the right side as I was emerging from the river, and I
beached there, rested, and ate some lunch. The Tevas and
walking sticks went onto the back deck as I readied myself
to paddle two or three miles to my permitted site. No
motorized craft are allowed on Shoshone Lake, and having to
pull your boat a mile upriver reduced the traffic on
Shoshone. I encountered a few people, mostly camped, and a
very few boats on the water.
The southwest wind was wipping pretty well in my face as I
approached the Narrows. There I encountered a fellow on a
SOT who cautioned me about the crossing--"it's rough out
there". He seemed to be advising me not to cross. I'd read
stories about how rough this Lake could get, but really, I
was paddling a sea kayak which had no problems slicing
through the wind waves and whitecaps.
But I did have a problem. I couldn't find the campsite. I'd
paddled to where it should be, based on the map, but didn't
see it. So, I continued along the shore, figuring I'd come
to it. What I came to was site 8R2, which logically should
be right next to my permitted site. So, I continued westward
along the northern shore. The sites are well separated on
this end of the Lake, and I think it was at least a mile to
the next site, 8R4. Great! I'd established that (a) I was
going the wrong direction, and (b) I wasn't seeing all the
sites. I worked back the way I had come and eventually found
my site.
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The little orange reflector
is mounted on a brown pole that bears the site number in
1.5" high figures. At site 8R1, said reflector/pole/sign was
erected immediately behind where a tree is now growing. No
wonder I missed it at first pass.
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The clearing for camping was
about 100 paces from the beach landing. The site was on top
of a bluff that rose sharply from the Lake.
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I was told to string my
vittles up from cross-poles I would find at the site. The
cross pole was attached to two vertical trees with chain,
and the darn thing was 20 - 25 feet up. I wasn't sure I had
enough rope to get over that bar and back down.
I tied together the several lengths of rope I had, tied a
hefty stick on one end of the line, and about threw my
shoulder out pitching the stick over the limb. As the limb
was sailing over the bar, it occurred to me I better grab
the loose end of the rope before the stick carried the whole
rope over the bar. That was a good idea, but in the
excitement I kind of lost track of the physics of the
situation. I caught the loose end of the rope, which
arrested the flight of the stick, which became the weight on
the end of a pendulum. After I caught the rope, I turned
back toward the bar and the stick swinging towards me on the
rope smacked me across the jaw. I don't know whether the
shock or the pain was greater.
I was quite afraid of meeting a bear. There wasn't a lot of
human traffic and the rangers had really hyped the danger of
bear encounters. Nobody was at the three other sites I
visited while wandering. If there was a bear encounter, it
would just be me and the bear. I swore so loud after that
stick hit my face that any bear in the neighborhood would
have been more scared than me!
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After paddling, setting up
camp, and having a stick slap the shit out of me, I knew it
was time for happy hour. I carried my chair and a drink to
this lakeside overlook.
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The beach at 8R1 was gravel.
On Saturday morning, I packed the camp back into the boat. I
decided to paddle 3 miles west to the end of the Lake and
see if I could find the thermal features.
As I was packing, I heard the noise of a distant train
across the Lake. Of course, there was no train, and I
thought it must be the wind. Wrong. It was rain, and it
rained hard for about a half hour.
Then a wind came up such as I had never experienced. It was
the suddenness that shocked me. It was like somebody flipped
a switch on a giant wind just 0 to 20+ in an instant. Waves
took 30 seconds before they stood up, and within minutes I
was churning head-on through serious wind waves. I recalled
reading that afternoon winds came up quickly on Yellowstone
lakes, but this was beyond my expectation for coming up
quick, and it was morning.
The wind blew like that for about an hour and then slowly
diminished. I was able to catch the sulfur sent of the hot
springs on the wind, and that helped me find them. But then
the wind quit. That was disappointing, because I was looking
forward to the ride down the lake with the wind at my back.
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There is a geyser basin at
the west end of Shoshone Lake. I don't know how extensive it
is because I became afraid to get out and walk around much,
recalling the warning about constantly changing conditions
and break-through crust, scalding water, etc.
There is a bubbling fumerol right at the water's edge.
A ranger later told me the features are more extensive and
there is a well worn trail through the features. I never saw
it. The ranger said if you stayed on the trail there was
little danger of being boiled alive.
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It was about a six-mile
paddle back to the Lewis River. There were a few other
paddlers on the water. In all, I think I saw four boats. At
the east end of the Lake, I again landed at the beach near
where the river exits Shoshone Lake, ate a bit, strapped the
Tevas over my booties, and broke out my wading sticks. As is
often the case, the trip downriver was much easier than the
upriver trip. I sat on the stern of the kayak, facing the
stern, and floated over the shallow swiftwater at the top
end of the Lewis. Sitting on the stern made the bow lighter,
so the current wouldn't sweep it around. I dangled my legs
in the water to fend of rocks and used the pole in either
hand to snub my way downriver. I only scraped one rock on
the way down. It was amazing how quick this part of the trip
went, at least in comparison to how long it had taken me to
travel upriver.
When I came out onto Lewis Lake the wind was howling again.
Naturally, it was not a helpful wind, basically SW and
coming at me from about my 1:00 - 2:00. Waves were a foot
and higher, but that just added interest to the paddle.
Still, it was a relief to return to the launch and finish
the trip.
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